Winemaker Rich Cushman
| Manager Heather Staten |
Heather: Rich, lead us through the winemaking process for these two wines. Tell me about the fermentation:
the most basic aspect of winemaking where yeasts turn grape sugars into alcohol.
Rich: We started both Chardonnays the same way—whole clusters (bunches) of grapes go into our gentle
bladder press and are squeezed into juice. The juice goes into a cool tank where the coarser sediment is
settled out. Then, the wines begin to go their separate ways. The Estate Reserve is made in a very classic way.
We put the juice into oak barrels, inoculate it with yeast and it ferments. The barrels add a spice character, a
tiny bit of smokiness and some tannins, which add to the structure of the wine. I use Alain Fouquet barrels
from the Allier and Troncais forests in France. I like a pretty healthy percentage of new barrels and a medium-
plus toast (the insides of the barrels are charred over a fire). The Unoaked, of course, doesn’t have a barrel to
add complexity or flavor so it’s all down to the quality of the fruit. We put the Chardonnay juice into stainless
steel tanks for fermentation and carefully control the temperature of fermentation. We are looking for slow
and cool (about 60 degrees) to accentuate the forward fruit qualities.
the most basic aspect of winemaking where yeasts turn grape sugars into alcohol.
Rich: We started both Chardonnays the same way—whole clusters (bunches) of grapes go into our gentle
bladder press and are squeezed into juice. The juice goes into a cool tank where the coarser sediment is
settled out. Then, the wines begin to go their separate ways. The Estate Reserve is made in a very classic way.
We put the juice into oak barrels, inoculate it with yeast and it ferments. The barrels add a spice character, a
tiny bit of smokiness and some tannins, which add to the structure of the wine. I use Alain Fouquet barrels
from the Allier and Troncais forests in France. I like a pretty healthy percentage of new barrels and a medium-
plus toast (the insides of the barrels are charred over a fire). The Unoaked, of course, doesn’t have a barrel to
add complexity or flavor so it’s all down to the quality of the fruit. We put the Chardonnay juice into stainless
steel tanks for fermentation and carefully control the temperature of fermentation. We are looking for slow
and cool (about 60 degrees) to accentuate the forward fruit qualities.
H: How about another term “lees stirring?” Lees: comes from an Old English word meaning dregs or sediment,
mainly dead yeast cells, that collecst at the bottom of a container. The lees are like little flavor nuggets adding a toast
flavor and richer texture to the wine. Did you stir the lees?
R: The Estate Reserve was stirred every two weeks until malolactic was complete then afterward about once a
month. The Unoaked wasn’t stirred, but it did age “sur lies” as the French say, so you do get a tiny bit of background
toastiness and improved texture.
H: How do you know when to bottle?
R: For the Estate Reserve it’s about giving the wine enough time in the barrelto integrate the oak and bring the wine
into balance—this is nearly a year after the grapes are harvested. The appeal of the Unoaked is its charming
freshness. So, we bottle early (just six months after harvest). For both wines, we have a rigorous selection process,
and not all the Chardonnay makes the cut. If there is a barrel we feel is weak, it doesn’t go into the Estate Reserve.
And we have to be ruthless when selecting for the Unoaked because you can’t hide anything in a wine like that. There’
s no oak or sugar to mask inferior fruit.
mainly dead yeast cells, that collecst at the bottom of a container. The lees are like little flavor nuggets adding a toast
flavor and richer texture to the wine. Did you stir the lees?
R: The Estate Reserve was stirred every two weeks until malolactic was complete then afterward about once a
month. The Unoaked wasn’t stirred, but it did age “sur lies” as the French say, so you do get a tiny bit of background
toastiness and improved texture.
H: How do you know when to bottle?
R: For the Estate Reserve it’s about giving the wine enough time in the barrelto integrate the oak and bring the wine
into balance—this is nearly a year after the grapes are harvested. The appeal of the Unoaked is its charming
freshness. So, we bottle early (just six months after harvest). For both wines, we have a rigorous selection process,
and not all the Chardonnay makes the cut. If there is a barrel we feel is weak, it doesn’t go into the Estate Reserve.
And we have to be ruthless when selecting for the Unoaked because you can’t hide anything in a wine like that. There’
s no oak or sugar to mask inferior fruit.
A Conversation with Winemaker Rich Cushman and Manager Heather Staten
Unoaked? Barrel fermented? Malolactic?The wine world is awash in technical terms that seem designed to mystify the general public and separate
those “in the know” from the “I don’t knows.” We use those terms as a kind of shorthand for the choices that are made in winemaking, and
winemaking is all about choices--the things we do or don’t do along the way of changing grapes into wine, which emphasize or create desired
flavors, textures and aromas. I sat down with our winemaker Rich Cushman and geeked out about the technical side of crafting our two
prizewinning Chardonnays.
Unoaked? Barrel fermented? Malolactic?The wine world is awash in technical terms that seem designed to mystify the general public and separate
those “in the know” from the “I don’t knows.” We use those terms as a kind of shorthand for the choices that are made in winemaking, and
winemaking is all about choices--the things we do or don’t do along the way of changing grapes into wine, which emphasize or create desired
flavors, textures and aromas. I sat down with our winemaker Rich Cushman and geeked out about the technical side of crafting our two
prizewinning Chardonnays.
H: Do the wines go through Malolactic Fermentation (ML or “malo”): a process that converts harsher malic acids (apple cider acids) into softer
lactic acids (milk)?
R: The Estate Reserve went through about 70% ML to soften the acidity but also to add complexity—malolactic tends to diminish fruit flavors in
favor of a creamy aromatic note and greater complexity. For the Unoaked, we try to do as little ML as possible because the wine is all about very
pure fruit flavors. We did need to do just a touch (about 15%) for the 2008 vintage because the grapes came in with higher acidity than usual.
lactic acids (milk)?
R: The Estate Reserve went through about 70% ML to soften the acidity but also to add complexity—malolactic tends to diminish fruit flavors in
favor of a creamy aromatic note and greater complexity. For the Unoaked, we try to do as little ML as possible because the wine is all about very
pure fruit flavors. We did need to do just a touch (about 15%) for the 2008 vintage because the grapes came in with higher acidity than usual.
H: So which do you like better?
R: I like them both equally . . .
H: Oh, what a good father you are—very even-handed and diplomatic! What do you really think?
R: Well, I probably drink more of the Unoaked because it is so crisp, lively and versatile, but I think the Estate Reserve is the best Chardonnay
I’ve ever made. It’s an excellent example of the classic Chardonnay paradigm with complexity, a deep, long palate and great aging potential. It
demands more attention and richer food.
R: I like them both equally . . .
H: Oh, what a good father you are—very even-handed and diplomatic! What do you really think?
R: Well, I probably drink more of the Unoaked because it is so crisp, lively and versatile, but I think the Estate Reserve is the best Chardonnay
I’ve ever made. It’s an excellent example of the classic Chardonnay paradigm with complexity, a deep, long palate and great aging potential. It
demands more attention and richer food.
| The Chardonnay Chronicles A Journey from Grape to Glass Vineyard News, Vol 9, August 2009 |